VEL

Academy

Professional Course

Russian Manicure

Gel + Poly Gel

Course: Speed Without Compromising Quality

Stages

Gel Correction "Sides"
Express Restoration

Removal*3–7 min
Shorten length*1–2 min
Smoothing*2–5 min
Manicure10–15 min
Base coat — full nail plate2–5 min
Sides3–5 min
Gel leveling8–10 min
Filing5–10 min
Internal filing3–5 min
Color10–15 min
Top coat3–5 min

Gel Correction

Removal*3–7 min
Smoothing*2–5 min
Manicure10–15 min
Base coat — full nail plate2–5 min
Gel leveling8–10 min
Shorten length2–3 min
Filing5–7 min
Internal filing3–5 min
Color10–15 min
Top coat3–5 min

Poly Gel Restoration
Method 1

Removal*3–7 min
Smoothing*2–5 min
Shorten length*1–2 min
Base coat — half nail2–3 min
Poly gel restoration5–8 min
Filing5–15 min
Manicure10–15 min
Base coat — full nail plate2–5 min
Gel leveling8–10 min
Filing3–5 min
Internal filing3–5 min
Color10–15 min
Top coat3–5 min

Poly Gel Restoration
Method 2

Removal*3–7 min
Smoothing*2–5 min
Shorten length*1–2 min
Manicure10–15 min
Base coat — full nail plate2–5 min
Poly gel restoration5–8 min
Gel leveling8–10 min
Filing8–15 min
Internal filing3–5 min
Color10–15 min
Top coat3–5 min

* If necessary | Time per stage is approximate

If the nail plate shows severe deformation (twisted lateral parallels, hooked nails), nails are thinned or naturally thin, problem nails, square rebuild needed, length extension required, no material on the free edge and the client refuses to shorten — use Poly Gel Architecture Restoration.

If deformation is minimal — use Sides. In all other cases — Gel.

Coating Removal

Removal Bits

Carbide Bit
Pro Burs №411
Purple grit

Carbide Bit
Kristall 31235
Blue grit

Carbide Bit — Left Hand
Kristall 13236
Blue grit

Grits available: Blue · Green · Purple
Prefer straight (corn-shaped) bits, not tapered.
Cone bits — for internal filing only.

Bit Rotation Speed (RPM)

Removal35,000
Smoothing10,000–15,000
Internal filing10,000
Free edge filing25,000

Coating Removal

Removal Scheme

1

2

3

4

5

6

35,000 RPM — FWD

1Left to right with fast back-and-forth strokes, without lifting the bit from the nail. Start with the tip of the bit, continue with the middle part, apply firm pressure.
2Right to left with fast back-and-forth strokes, without lifting the bit from the nail. Continue with the middle part of the bit, reduce pressure.
3Long stroke, top to bottom, using the tip of the bit with light pressure.
4Diagonally, using the middle part of the bit.
5Horizontal / circular strokes, using the tip and middle part of the bit with light pressure.
6Right to left with a long stroke, using the tip and middle part of the bit with light pressure.

Coating Removal

Smoothing Scheme

10,000–15,000 RPM — FWD

Horizontal back-and-forth / short chaotic strokes
using the middle part of the bit

When to perform:

Better smooth the surface / remove color for further coating (camouflage shade)
Remove lifting
Maximally remove old coating

If the next step is architecture restoration and color application (provided the previous coating held well) — skip smoothing.

Remove coating down to a thin layer, predominantly leaving material from the growth points to the end of the free edge.

Surface Filing with File (180 grit) — performed in 2 cases:

Client comes without coating and the cuticle scales need to be lifted
There is lifting that has affected deep layers of the nail

Manicure

Before Treatment:

1) Open the pocket with an orange stick
2) Talc

The orange stick must be well-sharpened.
Work with smooth pushing strokes from right to left.
At the end, check with a long stroke for adhesions.
Bypass pterygium / grooves.

In complex cases, adhesions can be worked separately with a flame bit at 5,000 RPM.

Manicure Bits

Diamond flame bit — 21 diameter, KMIZ — Red or Blue grit

With 15 instrument sets and 50–60 clients per month, the red flame lasts one month.

With more clients — prefer blue grit or replace the red flame more frequently.

Bit Rotation Speed (RPM)

Flame bit treatment

10,000 RPM

Manicure

Cuticle Treatment with Flame Bit — FWD (Left Side)

1

2

3

4

10,000 RPM — FWD — from the right sinus

1Remove pterygium — cheek diagonally from right sinus to left with short circular strokes along the nail. If needed, work the lateral nail wall with circular motions.
2Open the lateral groove — tip diagonally deep from the sinus to the end of the free edge with a long stroke.
3Remove dryness on the ridge with left-to-right strokes — open and cut from above (belly of the bit).
4Remove dryness on the ridge with top-to-bottom strokes.

Complete one zone fully before moving to the next —
do not return to previous movements.

Manicure

Cuticle Treatment with Flame Bit — REW (Right Side)

1

2

3

4

10,000 RPM — REW — from the left sinus

1Open the pocket — tip at an angle into the sinus, cheek pressed upward into the skin, open the pocket from the left sinus to the right without entering it.
2Smooth the right sinus if needed — cheek pressed into the skin diagonally, remove pterygium near the right sinus if necessary.
3Open the lateral groove — tip diagonally deep from the sinus to the end of the free edge with a long stroke.
4Remove dryness on the ridge — open and cut from above (belly of the bit).

Each movement is repeated approximately 3 times —
depending on the complexity of the hands.

Manicure

Scissors Grip

1

Right loop — thumb
Left loop — middle / ring finger
Index finger on the screw
Cutting angle: 90°

2

Left loop — thumb
Right loop — middle finger
Index finger on the screw
Cutting angle: 45°

Cuticle Cutting with Scissors

Example using Grip 1:

1In the right sinus — scissors at 45°
2Rotate scissors to 90°, step 1 mm, work with the tips
3Finish the cut by pointing tips upward, continuing with the blade to avoid leaving burrs

Scissors must always be parallel to the cuticle.

Manicure

Flame Bit Finishing — REW

From the left sinus to the right — finish with the flame bit at 10,000 RPM.
Also finish the ridges if needed.

Silicon-Carbide Bit Polishing of Dry Hands

Polish the skin with the middle part of the bit at 5,000 RPM FWD

Direction: left to right diagonally

Polishing is performed only on dry hands — for example, clients with dermatitis.

Base Coat

Correctly prepared nail plate for coating

Base coat applied to the full nail plate

Base Coat Application Scheme

Gel Leveling

1Paint the center with an oval brush
2Use a thin brush to finish the left lateral wall
3Right lateral wall
41 mm from the cuticle — paint in a thin layer
5Pull excess material from the free edge
6Flip the hand — use a thin brush to lightly finish the center

Work on 4 fingers at a time.
Use liquid or medium consistency gels.

Oval Shape Filing

Remove length with e-file TBC, 25,000 RPM

If needed — finish with a file at 90°

Compare both overhangs —
align to the same level

Remove overhang on the right lateral wall

Remove overhang on the left lateral wall

With rocking motions —
round the free edge (left and right)

With rocking motions —
round the free edge (compare at the center)

At 45° — go over the overhangs

Square Shape Filing

1

2

3

4

5

1File the free edge — file at 90° to the tip (use the edge of the file as a guide)
2Remove overhang on the left — file slides under the entire free edge in a flat position (as if lying on a table), resting on the free edge
3Repeat on the right side
4Create square sharpness — file flat (use edge as guide), file the lateral wall in practically one spot without changing file position, with even pressure
5Right side — same thing, work back and forth (left–right–left–right)

Sides

I use the Sides technique when the deformation of the free edge is minimal, or there is no thickness on the free edge, and the client does not want to shorten the length.

Can be worked with:

The gel you use for leveling
Jelly gel

The first option requires working faster — 1–2 fingers at a time.
The second option "holds" longer and can be done 4 fingers at a time.

Important rule:

The side must not be too high — otherwise surface filing will be needed.
Approximately 1–2 mm is enough.

Can be built up along the entire free edge,
or only the lateral walls.

Work with a thin brush with light pressure.

Architecture Restoration with Poly Gel

1Distribute a thin layer of material "conditionally" toward the growth points, along the lateral walls — thin
2Smooth the border with short top-to-bottom strokes
3Distribute the material evenly across the entire free edge
4Close the lateral parallels — squeeze out the corners
5Tap the free edge at 90° — look at the tip to check material distribution, correct if needed
6Result

Square Filing After Restoration

Removal bit — FWD, 20,000 RPM

1Remove length if needed
2File the free edge (flip the hand) to lift the free edge — do not go too deep
3Even out the arch without flipping the hand
4Remove excess material with left-to-right vertical strokes
5Check tactilely and with the hand turned sideways
6Tap the lateral walls and overhangs if needed

Then proceed to filing the shape with a file.

After that — do a surface filing with the e-file at 20–25,000 RPM, left-to-right with vertical strokes, to remove excess volume and ridges in the lateral walls — while constantly looking at the tip.