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Cuticle Work · Scissors Technique

Cuticle Scissors in Russian Manicure: Two Grip Positions and Three Steps to a Burr-Free Cut

By Yuliia Vel, VEL Academy · Russian Manicure Professional Education

A clean, burr-free cuticle line in a Russian manicure comes from two things: choosing the right scissors grip for the cuticle in front of you, and following a three-step cutting sequence. Grip 1 holds the blades at 90° for standard, well-lifted cuticle; Grip 2 holds them at 45° and gives more confidence on thin cuticle or for beginners. The cut itself enters the right sinus at 45°, rotates to 90° in 1 mm steps with the tips, and finishes with the tips turned up and the blade completing the cut — which prevents burrs.

VEL Academy methodology: The two-grip, three-step scissors technique described in this article is VEL Academy's recommended approach for clean, consistent cuticle cutting in Russian manicure. Other schools may teach different grip positions or cutting sequences. What is described here reflects the system VEL Academy has developed for efficiency and a burr-free result.

Cuticle scissors in Russian manicure are not used the same way as in conventional technique. The grip is chosen for the cuticle you are working on, the entry angle is specific, and the final movement of the blades determines whether burrs form or not. Together — two grip positions and three defined steps — these are what produce the clean cuticle line that Russian manicure delivers consistently, rather than occasionally.

Where Scissors Fit in the Cuticle Work Sequence

Why Scissors Follow the Flame Bit FWD and REW Passes

In VEL Academy Russian manicure technique, scissors are not the first tool that touches the cuticle zone. They come after the preparation and both flame bit sequences: orange stick and talc preparation → flame bit FWD sequence → flame bit REW sequence → scissors → flame bit REW finishing pass → silicon-carbide polishing if needed. The flame bit stages are covered in FWD and REW flame bit sequences, and why the two tools work together is explained in e-file or cuticle scissors.

Cutting Pre-Defined Dead Tissue Without Touching Living Skin

By the time scissors are introduced, the flame bit has already removed the pterygium from the nail plate, opened the lateral pocket and sinus, and addressed dryness on the ridges. What remains for scissors is the cuticle line itself — the thin strip of dead skin along the growth zone that the flame bit sequence loosened but did not cut. Scissors cut only what the bit has already defined, not living skin encountered without preparation, and produce the clean cuticle line that is one of the signature visual results of Russian manicure.

Cuticle scissors grip 1 thumb in right loop 90 degree cutting angle Russian manicure

Grip 1 — 90° cutting angle

Cuticle scissors grip 2 thumb in left loop 45 degree angle for thin cuticle

Grip 2 — 45° cutting angle

Two Grip Positions: Which Hold for Which Cuticle

VEL Academy technique uses two grip positions. In both, the index finger rests on the screw for control. The difference is the blade angle — and that is what decides which grip suits the cuticle in front of you.

Grip 1

Grip 1 — The 90° Cutting Angle for Standard Cuticle

Thumb in the right loop, middle or ring finger in the left loop, index finger resting on the screw. This grip holds the blades at 90° to the cuticle — the classic straight cut for standard, dense, well-lifted cuticle.

Grip 2

Grip 2 — The 45° Angle for Thin Cuticle and Beginners

Thumb in the left loop, middle finger in the right loop, index finger on the screw. This side grip holds the blades at 45°. It gives you more confidence when cutting thin cuticle — and it is often the easier, more comfortable hold for technicians who are just starting out with scissors.

The grip is chosen before the cut, based on the cuticle — you do not switch grips in the middle of a cut. Within the cut, the angle changes by rotating the scissors, as the three steps below show.

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Three Steps: Entry, Cut, and Finish

The cutting sequence in VEL Academy technique has three defined steps, shown here on Grip 1. Each step has a specific purpose, and the sequence only produces a clean result when all three are completed in order. Throughout all three, the scissors stay parallel to the cuticle.

Cuticle scissors at 45 degrees in right sinus step 1 entry point Russian manicure

Step 1 — Entry at 45° in sinus

Cuticle scissors rotated to 90 degrees working tips along cuticle line step 2

Step 2 — Rotate to 90°, work tips

Cuticle scissors tips pointed upward finishing cut with the blade to prevent burrs step 3

Step 3 — Tips upward, finish with the blade

Step 1 — Clean Entry at 45° in the Right Sinus

Position the scissors at 45° in the right sinus. This is the entry point for the cut — not the center of the cuticle line, and not the left sinus. Starting in the sinus at 45° allows the blades to enter cleanly without catching the skin at the transition between the lateral wall and the cuticle line. The scissors must be parallel to the cuticle at the entry point.

Step 2 — Rotating to 90° and Working 1mm Forward with the Tips

After entry, rotate the scissors to 90° and step forward approximately 1 mm. Work along the cuticle line using the tips of the blades — not the full blade length. Short, controlled cuts with the tips are what produce a smooth, even edge rather than a jagged one. Each tip movement steps forward about 1 mm along the cuticle curve.

Step 3 — Pointing Tips Upward and Finishing with the Blade

To finish, point the scissor tips upward and complete the cut with the blade in this position. This finish is the specific movement that prevents burrs at the end of the cuticle line.

The Burr Problem Explained and How the Upward Finish Solves It

Why Burrs Form at the End of the Cut

Burrs — the small hangnail-like pieces of skin left along the cuticle line — are not random. They form at the end of the cut, when the last bit of skin is not fully cut through and stays attached. A cut that ends on the tips alone is the typical cause.

How the Upward Finish Prevents Burrs

Turning the tips upward and completing the cut with the blade cuts through the end of the line cleanly instead of leaving a small piece of skin behind. It is a small movement, but it removes the most common visible imperfection in cuticle scissors work.

What Comes After Scissors: The REW Finishing Pass

After scissors, the flame bit is used one more time — a REW finishing pass at 10,000 RPM from the left sinus to the right, finishing the ridges if needed. It is a planned part of the sequence, not a correction for scissors errors: the scissors cut the cuticle line, and the finishing pass cleans up the surrounding zone. The pass itself is described in FWD and REW flame bit sequences.

Flame bit final REW pass complete cuticle zone clean result after scissors Russian manicure

Completed cuticle work sequence: flame bit FWD → REW → scissors → REW finishing pass

How Scissors Technique Affects Service Speed

The two-grip, three-step scissors technique saves time for a simple reason: it produces a clean result the first time, without the correction passes that an imprecise cut requires. A cut that leaves burrs needs a correction pass — either with scissors again or with the flame bit. A cut made with the right grip, parallel scissors, and the upward finish needs no correction.

The net time saving is not in the scissors stroke itself — it is in the elimination of correction. This is consistent with the broader principle of VEL Academy Russian manicure technique: precision at each step eliminates correction work downstream, and that cumulative effect is where the up to 30% efficiency improvement comes from.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cuticle Scissors Technique

VEL Academy teaches two grip positions, and the grip is chosen for the cuticle before the cut. Grip 1: thumb in the right loop, middle or ring finger in the left loop, index finger on the screw — blades at 90°, the classic straight cut for standard, well-lifted cuticle. Grip 2: thumb in the left loop, middle finger in the right loop, index finger on the screw — blades at 45°, which gives more confidence on thin cuticle and is often easier for beginners.
Grip 2, with the blades at 45°. This side grip gives more confidence when cutting thin cuticle, and it is often the easier, more comfortable hold for technicians who are just starting out with scissors. For standard, dense, well-lifted cuticle, Grip 1 at 90° is the classic choice.
In VEL Academy technique, shown on Grip 1: Step 1 — position the scissors at 45° in the right sinus as the entry point. Step 2 — rotate to 90°, step about 1 mm forward at a time, and work along the cuticle line with the tips. Step 3 — point the tips upward and finish the cut with the blade, so no burrs are left.
Burrs form at the end of the cut when the last bit of skin is not fully cut through and stays attached. In VEL Academy technique, the final step turns the scissor tips upward and completes the cut with the blade — that finish cuts through the end of the line cleanly instead of leaving a small piece of skin behind.
Scissors that drift off parallel create an angled cut rather than one following the natural curve of the cuticle line — producing an uneven edge and small uncut sections between strokes. Keeping the scissors parallel to the cuticle throughout is what produces a clean, even cuticle line.
Before scissors: orange stick and talc preparation, then the flame bit FWD and REW sequences, which remove pterygium and loosen the cuticle line. After scissors: a REW finishing pass with the flame bit at 10,000 RPM from the left sinus to the right, finishing the ridges if needed — and, for very dry hands only, silicon-carbide polishing.