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Nail Shape · Oval

Oval Nail Shape in Russian Manicure: The 7-Step Filing Sequence from Overhang to Final Curve

By Yuliia Vel, VEL Academy · Russian Manicure Professional Education

In VEL Academy Russian manicure, an oval nail shape is filed in 7 steps: remove the length with an e-file, compare both overhangs and bring them to the same level, remove the right and then the left overhang, round the free edge with rocking motions left and right, round it again comparing at the center, and finish with a 45° pass over the overhangs. Only the length is removed with the e-file — everything else is done with a hand file.

VEL Academy methodology: the overhangs on both sides are aligned and removed before rounding begins. Rounding starts only when both sides are at the same level.

An oval looks like a simple curve, but a symmetrical oval comes from doing the steps in the right order. In VEL Academy technique, the length comes off first, then both overhangs are brought to the same level and removed, and only then is the free edge rounded. This article walks through the full sequence.

Why the Order of Steps Matters

Each step in the sequence prepares the nail for the next one. The length is removed first, so the overhangs can be compared on a nail that is already the right length. The overhangs are aligned and removed before rounding, so the rounding starts from two equal sides. The center check during rounding shows whether both sides of the curve match. The final 45° pass finishes the overhangs once the shape is done.

Steps 1–4: Length and Overhangs

Step 1 — Remove the Length

If the nail needs to be shortened, remove the length with an e-file and a carbide (TBC) bit at 25,000 RPM. If needed, finish the free edge with a hand file held at 90°.

Removing nail length with an e-file and carbide bit at 25,000 RPM before oval shaping

Step 1 — Length removed with an e-file, 25,000 RPM

Finishing the free edge with a hand file at 90 degrees

Step 1 — If needed, finish with a file at 90°

Step 2 — Compare Both Overhangs

Compare the overhangs on both sides and bring them to the same level. How to check this visually is covered in aligning coating overhang on both sides.

Comparing both overhangs and aligning them to the same level before oval shaping

Step 2 — Compare both overhangs and align them to the same level

Step 3 — Remove the Right Overhang

Remove the overhang on the right lateral wall with a hand file.

Step 4 — Remove the Left Overhang

Remove the overhang on the left lateral wall the same way. After this step, the nail is ready for rounding.

Removing the overhang on the right lateral wall with a hand file

Step 3 — Right overhang

Removing the overhang on the left lateral wall with a hand file

Step 4 — Left overhang

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Steps 5–7: Rounding and the Final Pass

Step 5 — Round the Free Edge with Rocking Motions

With rocking motions of the hand file, round the free edge — on the left and on the right.

Step 6 — Round and Compare at the Center

Continue rounding with rocking motions, comparing the curve at the center so both sides of the oval match.

Rounding the free edge with rocking motions of the hand file on the left and right

Step 5 — Rocking motions, left and right

Rounding the free edge with rocking motions while comparing at the center

Step 6 — Rocking motions, comparing at the center

Step 7 — Final Pass at 45°

With the file at 45°, go over the overhangs. This step is covered in detail in the final 45° pass for oval nails.

Hand file at 45 degrees going over the overhangs as the final oval shaping step

Step 7 — File at 45° over the overhangs

The order to remember: length first, then both overhangs, then rounding. The e-file is used only for the length — the shape itself is filed by hand.

Frequently Asked Questions About Oval Nail Filing

Seven: remove the length with an e-file (finishing with a file at 90° if needed), compare both overhangs and bring them to the same level, remove the right overhang, remove the left overhang, round the free edge with rocking motions left and right, round it comparing at the center, and finish with a 45° pass over the overhangs.
It is how the free edge is rounded in VEL Academy technique: the hand file rocks across the free edge instead of moving in straight strokes. The edge is rounded on the left and the right, and then again while comparing at the center.
Because rounding should start from two equal sides. In the VEL Academy sequence, both overhangs are compared, brought to the same level and removed before the free edge is rounded.
It is the last step of the sequence: with the file at 45°, you go over the overhangs once the shape is rounded. The technique is covered in detail in a separate article on the final 45° pass.
Both, at different steps. In VEL Academy technique, the e-file is used only to remove the length — with a carbide (TBC) bit at 25,000 RPM. Everything else — finishing at 90° if needed, the overhangs, rounding and the 45° pass — is done with a hand file.